Enmore (Versailles) “KFM” 1991 encore une fois

PFM was Peyton Freaking Manning (Go Broncos). KFM is Kenneth Francis Mackenzie, the owner of the Lusignan plantation. As often in history, Enmore probably tried to mimic the Lusignan distillery’s style.

Samaroli Demerara Dark (Enmore “KFM”) 1991 14YO (45%): A bottling from back when Samaroli still used to be someone, well, Samaroli! Nose: An absolutely fantastic nose! I get notes of plum, wood shavings, milk chocolate, tobacco, plenty of coffee, teriyaki sauce, maple syrup, burnt caramel and we could go on and on – the Rum just keeps on giving. It almost feels as if the reduction helped to bring out all these flavours. Palate: Already quite bitter, despite its age, but it isn’t bothering at all. In fact, it is much closer to strong coffee and dark chocolate than it is to too much wood. What a great distillate this is! As with most of these KFMs, the palate is way less complex than the nose, but if it is as lovely and easy going as this we have found ourselves a winner. Don’t blame dilution too early, my friends! With the second sip we get the whole range of spices from cinnamon to cardamom, paired with some hay-like or even remotely herbal notes. Coffee, caramel and rich chocolate are the still the main players, however. Finish: Long and rich, but merely an extension of the palate. Frankly, I don’t mind that here. A marvelous Rum, bottled pretty much at the right time. (91/100)

Nobilis Enmore (Versailles) “KFM” -Rum Exchange- 1991 29YO (51,2%): Nobilis love these old and woody Demeraras so we kinda expected a bottling like this. Nose: Quite reserved, especially when compared to the other KFMs which are incredibly aromatic in the nose. After a while I get a mix of old cigars that haven’t seen the inside of a humidor for years, dry wood, dusty cardboard, cocoa and coffee. Deeper in the glass I can also find pecan nuts, olives and peppery notes. It is not bad but I am not totally enthusiastic here. Palate: Very bitter and woody. These’s Rums are balancing on a knife’s edge and this one is already leaning over a little bit too much. Flavourwise, we get coffee, a mix of milk and dark chocolate, artichoke, wood and plenty of spices and a herbal bitterness slightly akin to Amaro in this case. Even though the Rum isn’t very exciting, it is all fine and good, if it weren’t for this slightly watery profile. In fact, this tastes much more diluted than those Samarolis, unfortunately. Finish: Way shorter than expected. The bitter notes stick around for a while, but besides coffee and an, admittedly pleasant praline, it doesn’t leave a lasting impression. One of the weaker casks in my book. (81/100)

Flensburg Rum Company Enmore (Versailles) “KFM” 1991 30YO (51,9%): Their first release was bitter beyond all tolerability and I am not sure what to expect from an even older expression. Nose: This is soo much better already, it is not even funny. There’s plenty of wood, tobacco, cinnamon, coffee, cocoa and dark chocolate, nutmeg, pepper and a hint of molasses. However, I don’t get any fruity notes whatsoever but this is still quite good I must say. Palate: Oh yeah. Not that much bitterness this time. Instead we get wood, marzipan, coffee, cocoa and a melange of spices as only Enmore was able to produce it back then. This is great stuff, if you are into these bone dry Demeraras. Subsequent sips reveal dust, olives and Mediterranean herbs, peanuts and Cantuccini. Really, really good – I just love these old Enmores, well most of the time.. Finish: Looong with wood, spices, a certain bitterness (think Espresso), Italian coffee pastry and plenty of spices. Comparing this to the first release, it is really night and day. Alas, I am really glad they bottled this gem, despite the criticism they received after the first KFM release. (90/100)

Rum Artesanal Enmore (Versailles) “KFM” 1991 31YO (54,5%): Another sister cask, probably sold by Main pretty much at the same time. Nose: Extremely rich and full of character. What is more, this bottling posses a nuances I haven’t found in any of the other KFMs, namely eucalyptus/ mint, even though it is somewhat hidden between the characteristic combination of rich coffee, cocoa, wood and molasses.After a while we even get slightly smoky notes, resembling charcoal. Palate: While the first impression is a somewhat sweet one (milk chocolate, marzipan), the Rum immediately makes the shift to bitter and astringent (mocha, old wood, cocoa). Here and there we get a glimpse of herbs, paired with molasses and prunes. I get the same Mediterranean vibes as with the Flensburg bottling. Finish: Long, just as you’d expect it. Plenty of dark chocolate and cocoa, mocha, spices and wood entertain you for quite a while. Picking a winner between this one and the Flensburg is pretty much impossible for me. Both are great as they are, and while not 100% interchangeable I’d say it is sufficent to try one of them. (90/100)

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